Presidential Traverse: Mt. Washington

And this our life, exempt from public haunt,
Finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks,
Sermons in stones, and good in everything.
           Shakespeare, As You Like It, (II.i.1–17)

Over Memorial Day weekend, my husband and I returned to the White Mountain area of New Hampshire where we snowshoed in February. Returning was a completely different experience – it was a luxury not to be worried about freezing food/water/skin and sleeping in 4 layers of clothing, though the trails were obviously much more crowded, eliminating some of the serene peacefulness we experienced during the winter. The trip was also a reunion for us; 5 of the 9 of us were snowshoe trip alumni.

Mizpah Hut

The worst part of the trip is always the drive, but we packed up with everyone in a 15-passenger van by 7am Saturday morning and trucked along on the 7-hour drive north. Arriving in the afternoon, we hiked for ~2.5 hours up a 1,900 ft. elevation gain on the Crawford Path to stay at the Mizpah Spring Hut, one of the many huts owned and operated by the Appalachian Mountain Club.

Sunday night would find us at a different hut – Joe Dodge Lodge – so we packed everything into our packs Sunday morning loaded up on water, and headed out by 8am for a crazy-full day of hiking. 

The poetry of the earth is never dead.  ~John Keats 

We took the Webster Cliff Trail & Crawford Path trails to summit Mount Eisenhower (4,780 feet), Mount Franklin (5,001 feet) and Mount Monroe (5,372 feet). After stopping for a brief lunch break at Lake of the Clouds, we pressed on to summit Mt. Washington, the tallest peak in the Northeast at 6,288 ft.

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.  ~John Muir

I believe that there is a subtle magnetism in Nature, which, if we unconsciously yield to it, will direct us aright.  ~Henry David Thoreau

The Mt. Washington summit is also accessible via car, so it was a bit strange to go from hiking in the wilderness to a summit with gift shops, a cafeteria, and hordes of tourists. The views were spectacular, though; apparently we enjoyed one of only a few clear days Mt. Washington has all year.

Mt.Washington View (and Parking Lot)

Mt. Washington is famous for having some of the most volatile weather in the world, and holds the world record in wind speed (231mph, recorded in 1934). The trails to/from the mountain are deceptively exhausting. While the hike was “only” about 12 miles, it took us a full 12 hours as much of the trails were piles of rocks/boulders. Particularly on the descent via the Lionhead trail, you had to think about every step you took, and steep/slippery sections of the trail could mean serious injury if you stepped carelessly.

That said, everyone in the group eventually made it down to Joe Dodge Lodge. Most of the AMC huts are bare-bones: some have running water (drinking only, no showers), electricity for a couple hours at night only, and large shared rooms of bunk-style cots. They essentially provide shelter and cooking facilities so you can minimize your carried-in supplies. Joe Dodge Lodge, at the base of Mt. Washington, was accessible by highway and therefore had hot running water. Oh my. Having a hot shower at the end of the traverse was a ridiculously nice surprise.

The Intrepid Crew!

Monday morning we explored North Conway, a cute, touristy NH town, before driving back into the city. We were rather like a gimpy clown car on the way back; we would stop for bathroom breaks and 9 incredibly sore hikers would slowly pile out of the van, easing their way out one foot at a time, and stretching/limping towards the restrooms.

There is a season for everything, and while we missed a bit the soul-refreshing solitude of our February trip, we enjoyed the soul-warming friendliness of company on this trip. Chris and I are already plotting additional hikes for the summer - stay tuned.

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings.  Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.  The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.  ~John Muir